In a city often defined by distinctive buildings, the shiny Sheikh Zayed Road structure is arguably one of the more noticeable.
Thankfully, diners can tuck into the Thai hotel’s brunch offering in good faith that appetites are well catered for by one of Dubai's more seasoned Friday fixtures.
For starters, it is spread across three restaurants, all of which contribute delicacies to the dishes on display around what is effectively the dining level lobby on the 24th floor.
Brunch customers have the option of dining in the serenity of Benjarong, PAX Ristorante & Lounge or The Californian Restaurant. The former is the hotel’s celebrated signature Thai restaurant while The Californian is a more casual dining experience with Burj Khalifa views and popular with families when we visited.
Then there is PAX, Dusit Thani’s splendid Italian concession. Ordinarily home to a well-devised menu – the tuna tartar is outstanding – on a Friday it offers bright airy seating with great views towards the ocean beyond ever-bustling SZR.
Pop music soundtracked our pondering of the tough choices the centralised buffet presented, although you’ll also find live piano and traditional displays of Thai dancing during the course of the afternoon.
While the Arabic selection was well balanced and tempting, the main focus initially had to be the generous cold seafood quarter in the centre of the room.
Set around a clever ice carving, small yet potent treats and juicy prawns to crab and sushi made it hard to not stray beyond these appetizers and simply keep restocking.
Then that would mean missing out on the Peking Duck station, the BBQ stop, the Indian corner or the delicately-spiced Thai curries.
Benjarong was a strong motivation for our cab journey across town and dishes such as the gusty Thai papaya salad Som Tum and plum sauce-accompanied Minced Prawns on lemongrass stick presented a strong case as to why the restaurant warrants a fuller investigation.
Live cooking stations, most notably at PAX, and a cheese station also beckon, as does a mercifully selective but eye-catching dessert section.
The environment is family friendly, but diners have a contrasting choice of areas to choose from. The food is varied without going overboard and the quality strong, which is reassuring when you have visitors sampling their first brunch in the city.
While some brunches go for glamour and gimmicks, this one concentrates on what matters most and throws in some good views both inside and out.
Although the brunch menu is revised annually, it is hoped they’ll continue to indulge us with the likes of Smoked Chicken Lasagne, Arancini rice balls stuffed with cheese and a naughty but nice Veal Ossobucco – all worth beating a path to amid the 60-plus dishes on offer.
Like any good brunch, it helps to have a plan to get the most out of the afternoon – even if that plan is to come back for a repeat Friday visit.
Dusit Thani’s Friday brunch runs from 12.30-4pm and comprises four packages: 225AED per person with soft drinks & chilled juice; 285AED per person with house wine & house beer; 350AED per person with sparkling wine & house spirits; 495AED per person with Champagne.
The hotel has just released details of its festive dining opportunities. Prices for the turkey-tastic packages run from 295AED to 595AED per person.
The Dusit New Year’s Eve dinner gives you a prime spot from which to watch the Burj Khalifa fireworks “while indulging in luxurious International fare”.
Prices start from 3,800AED for a table of four with one bottle of Champagne to 7,400AED for a table of eight, with two bottles of Champagne. The rates are inclusive of unlimited house wine, beer and spirits. Timing: 7:30pm to 12:30am.
For reservations and further price info call 04 317 4515 or email firstname.lastname@example.org