IT is 25 years since Iraq’s temporary but deadly occupation of Kuwait - and a generation on the tiny Gulf state remains anything but your typical tourist destination.
NIGHT SIGHT: Al Manshar Rotans blends well with the lights of Al Kout Mall
Many will remember bleak headlines a generation ago in February when Iraq’s short-lived invasion of Kuwait ended amid scores of burning oil wells.
Twenty-five years on from Operation Desert Storm, the nation continues to thrive via its biggest asset; also a motivation for Saddam Hussein’s transgression.
Twenty-five years on from Operation Desert Storm, the nation continues to thrive via its biggest asset; also a motivation for Saddam Hussein’s transgression.
The drive from Kuwait’s Sheikh Saad Terminal to the town of Fahaheel passes through dramatic landscapes; ranging from stark desert to huge metal puzzles of pipes and giant tanks, this is where the Gulf nation’s black gold is harvested and refined.
But Kuwait has also evolved into a destination with luxury beach resorts and malls to cater for visitors, be they on business or holiday.
Admittedly, Kuwait has much to learn from the likes of Dubai about nurturing tourism, but it does possess the culture to balance its comforts.
Al Manshar Rotana is well equipped to provide the latter. And while general manager Imad Zaboura says much of his clientele is on business, the hotel is a good base from which to explore.
But Kuwait has also evolved into a destination with luxury beach resorts and malls to cater for visitors, be they on business or holiday.
Admittedly, Kuwait has much to learn from the likes of Dubai about nurturing tourism, but it does possess the culture to balance its comforts.
Al Manshar Rotana is well equipped to provide the latter. And while general manager Imad Zaboura says much of his clientele is on business, the hotel is a good base from which to explore.
POOL ABLE: Rooftop relaxation and a dip at Al Manshar Rotana
With the Gulf shoreline a short walk away, the building has windows overlooking the Arabian Sea - and some facing flames that lick the sky from refinery stacks.
Admittedly, that’s not everyone’s desired view, but few could argue with Al Manshar Rotana’s stylish décor, calming music – including a nighttime pianist in the Library Lounge - and modern facilities. The rooftop pool, poolside Bay View dining area and the Bodylines fitness centre also give views of the ocean and Al Kout Marina.
Failaka, the hotel’s all-day dining restaurant, offers international variety and tasty respite from the heat and busy streets beyond.
Shops at nearby Al Kout Mall are a draw for Western visitors and the fish market is surprisingly tourist-friendly. In fact, like many market vendors we met, they invite you to take snapshots; not always popular in the Middle East.
At dusk, outside seating areas bristle with banter as locals eat beside fountain displays while at weekends the nearby beaches fill with families.
Admittedly, that’s not everyone’s desired view, but few could argue with Al Manshar Rotana’s stylish décor, calming music – including a nighttime pianist in the Library Lounge - and modern facilities. The rooftop pool, poolside Bay View dining area and the Bodylines fitness centre also give views of the ocean and Al Kout Marina.
Failaka, the hotel’s all-day dining restaurant, offers international variety and tasty respite from the heat and busy streets beyond.
Shops at nearby Al Kout Mall are a draw for Western visitors and the fish market is surprisingly tourist-friendly. In fact, like many market vendors we met, they invite you to take snapshots; not always popular in the Middle East.
At dusk, outside seating areas bristle with banter as locals eat beside fountain displays while at weekends the nearby beaches fill with families.
TO SCALE: The staff at the Al Kout Mall fish market seem happy to pose for a snapshot
Here lies a negative for Fahaheel in attracting Western tourists, however; bikinis are not welcome in public, other than the private beaches, Aqua Park and resort bathing areas along the coast towards Kuwait City.
The alleyways of the souq beside the hotel make for colourful forays, but for larger mall shopping and thriving traditional souqs you must head to the capital.
Around 20 minutes by car – you can hire but Kuwait’s poor road safety record suggests a cab is the better option – gets you there.
Or, if you seek more of an adventure and to save a few Dinar, catch one of numerous regular buses. The 40-minute trip on the 103 or 999 costs about 60 pence.
Ask the driver to drop you beside the heritage walkways of Souq Al Mubarakiya, a working market where you’ll feel like a novelty.
The alleyways of the souq beside the hotel make for colourful forays, but for larger mall shopping and thriving traditional souqs you must head to the capital.
Around 20 minutes by car – you can hire but Kuwait’s poor road safety record suggests a cab is the better option – gets you there.
Or, if you seek more of an adventure and to save a few Dinar, catch one of numerous regular buses. The 40-minute trip on the 103 or 999 costs about 60 pence.
Ask the driver to drop you beside the heritage walkways of Souq Al Mubarakiya, a working market where you’ll feel like a novelty.
IT'S A DATE: Life at Souq Al Mubarakiya seems to have not changed much, including a welcome to strangers
We were invited to try dates and ultimately sit among locals to eat lamb kebab with fresh Arabic bread, salad and cold drinks for less than a fiver. Amid the chatter and buzz of the kitchens came questions about home and our reason for visiting Kuwait.
A short walk finds the Grand Mosque. The world’s eighth largest, it is more decorative inside than its stocky exterior suggests and opens to visitors 9am-10.30am and 5pm-7pm weekdays, although best check weekend timings. The place is spacious, peaceful and comes to life as the sun sinks.
The iconic Kuwait Towers with their bauble midriffs were closed for renovation on our visit but you can photograph their distinctive shapes against the blue sky from outside. When open, the Main Tower contains dining opportunities and views along the Corniche from a rotating level.
A short walk finds the Grand Mosque. The world’s eighth largest, it is more decorative inside than its stocky exterior suggests and opens to visitors 9am-10.30am and 5pm-7pm weekdays, although best check weekend timings. The place is spacious, peaceful and comes to life as the sun sinks.
The iconic Kuwait Towers with their bauble midriffs were closed for renovation on our visit but you can photograph their distinctive shapes against the blue sky from outside. When open, the Main Tower contains dining opportunities and views along the Corniche from a rotating level.
ICONIC STRUCTURES: The Kuwait Towers are a familiar sight, but check they are open before you attempt a visit
Kuwait City also boasts a large marina and modern shopping at Marina Mall, 360 Mall and The Avenues, the latter including a heritage section. The waterside Souq Sharq was one of the city’s first malls and is cited for souvenir shopping.
For a better understanding of Kuwaiti heritage and recent history, try the Tareq Rajab Museum of Islamic Arts and Al Qurain Martyrs Museum, respectively. Both in residential neighbourhoods best reached by taxi, the former is a private collection of calligraphy, weapons and artifacts. The latter is the site of a battle fought days before the liberation of Kuwait from Iraqi soldiers.
The Al Manshar Rotana concierge provided a map listing many of the things to see, including Kuwait National Museum, Modern Art Museum and regional art hub Dar Al Funoon. Sadu House celebrates the textile heritage of the Kuwaiti Bedouin while the restaurant at Liberation Tower – started before and completed after the Iraq occupation – gives an over-view of the city.
For a better understanding of Kuwaiti heritage and recent history, try the Tareq Rajab Museum of Islamic Arts and Al Qurain Martyrs Museum, respectively. Both in residential neighbourhoods best reached by taxi, the former is a private collection of calligraphy, weapons and artifacts. The latter is the site of a battle fought days before the liberation of Kuwait from Iraqi soldiers.
The Al Manshar Rotana concierge provided a map listing many of the things to see, including Kuwait National Museum, Modern Art Museum and regional art hub Dar Al Funoon. Sadu House celebrates the textile heritage of the Kuwaiti Bedouin while the restaurant at Liberation Tower – started before and completed after the Iraq occupation – gives an over-view of the city.
OLD AND NEW: A speedboat passes the vintage fishing craft moored at Al Kout Marina
Many will remember bleak headlines a generation ago when Saddam Hussein’s men finally retreated leaving oil wells burning.
Kuwait has fixed its scars and evidently prospered, but it is yet to flourish as a tourist haven. Those happy to seek out its heritage, however, or immerse themselves in malls, would find Kuwait an intriguing addition to their passport.
FACTFILE:
Stay at the five star Al Manshar Rotana from £143 per room, per night, including breakfast, based on two adults in a Classic Room. Book and see more at www.rotana.com
FlyDubai flies direct to Kuwait from DXB. Go to www.skyscanner.net for options.
For more on Kuwait attractions visit www.kuwaittourism.com
Kuwait has fixed its scars and evidently prospered, but it is yet to flourish as a tourist haven. Those happy to seek out its heritage, however, or immerse themselves in malls, would find Kuwait an intriguing addition to their passport.
FACTFILE:
Stay at the five star Al Manshar Rotana from £143 per room, per night, including breakfast, based on two adults in a Classic Room. Book and see more at www.rotana.com
FlyDubai flies direct to Kuwait from DXB. Go to www.skyscanner.net for options.
For more on Kuwait attractions visit www.kuwaittourism.com
