But new restaurant MEI does exactly that with style and finesse.
From the distinguished frontage of host hotel Jumeirah Mina Al Salam, through marble-floored corridors, and down a plush carpeted staircase, you feel your surroundings evolve as you enter what feels more like a destination than a restaurant.
MEI immediately beguiles, from its grand pivot doors and intricate woodwork through to authentic lighting, sumptuous furnishing and mesmerising murals. This rich decor more than sets the scene for cuisine with refinement to match.
Our evening develops into a taste-fuelled journey, from sushi gems such as sashimi and nigiri platters - complete with in-house created wasabi - through refreshing salmon carpaccio, decadent tuna and caviar tartare, and moreishly modern Wagyu rice cakes and tuna tacos.
So far, so spoiled. But this kitchen clearly has crowd-pleasing in its sights as ‘middle courses’ of duck salad and spinach salad compete with perfect mouthfuls of shrimp gyoza and Angus beef bao buns that you could eat all day long.
Mixed tempura, vegetable spring rolls and a mushroom lotus puff add further delicious textures to the table, while the chicken siu mai dumplings here remain light with a subtle flavour profile.
Every Chinese restaurant takes pride in its Peking duck, and MEI’s signature offering is no exception, serving up perfectly cooked meat that remains moist.
The dishes dive into decadent territory again with lobster paired with black bean sauce - the white shellfish holding its own. In much the same way as personal, long-time favourite, black cod in miso sauce.
That said, the Wagyu beef in black pepper sauce is a dream combination here that would silence even the fussiest of menu meanderers.
If all that sounds like a feast, you would be right.
But keep in mind desserts such as delicate pear carpaccio and a naughty but very nice chocolate fondant with sencha (green tea) ice-cream for that perfect send off.
As the evening moves on, so does the space, evolving into a late-night escape with live singers and DJs injecting energy that takes it beyond the cliched ambience some Asian restaurants occupy.
The above with softer lights blend to give the place a sense of intimacy. And once the kitchen concludes service at midnight, the bar continues until 2am for those tempted to stretch their experience.
A generous outdoor terrace with seating for 120 guests overlooks the Burj Al Arab - ideal for the incoming cooler evenings - but it is the interiors that really put MEI on the map.
Clearly, significant investment and culturally-informed craftsmanship has brought the venue to life, including some of the flashiest washrooms Dubai has to offer.
Diana Rysbaeva, Founder & CEO of SHI Hospitality Group, says her new venture is inspired by the crane - a symbol of longevity and elegance in Asian culture - and represents grace, strength, and renewal.
“MEI was created as a space that grows with the evening,” she says. “We wanted to capture the poetry of dining, the way flavours, sounds, and moments unfold when shared with others.”
The Dubai-based hospitality company is dedicated to creating immersive dining destinations that unite gastronomy, design, and culture. It has gained a name for concepts that balance heritage and innovation, blending refined culinary traditions with contemporary storytelling.
Her company’s portfolio includes SHI - the flagship fine-dining Chinese and Japanese restaurant on Bluewaters Island - and MOLI by SHI, an elevated Chinese dining experience at Dubai Hills Business Park.
Added to that are “reimagined” dim sum concept Jixiang Dimsum, and Brioche & Bite, a Dubai-born café concept, while internationally the group also operates Paya & Moon in Thailand.
DETAILS:
MEI is at Jumeirah Mina A’Salam, Souk Madinat
FOR reservations call +971 58691 0029
FIND MEI on Instagram @mei.dxb